Some people might think that it’s weird that I spent a good percentage of my time wandering around Vienna’s cemeteries looking for classical composers, but if you had Beethoven’s 5th tattooed on your side and Amadeus was your favorite film, you’d take the time to go find their graves too.
Friday morning I took a trip out to St. Marx cemetery where Mozart was buried. There is a lot of debate about his burial site because at the time of his death the church order was to be buried in a mass grave with no coffin and no headstone. It’s always been unfathomable to me how such a legend could be buried like a pauper. Since then, a marker has been placed in the area that is most likely to be where Mozart was buried. I don’t even really give a shit if he was under that rock or not, this cemetery was fucking cool.
St. Marx is a graveyard right out of the movies, the kind of graveyard you picture when you think of a film like Hocus Pocus (or maybe something scarier, I wouldn’t know, I don’t watch those) with gravestones all from the 18th century, some having statues with missing heads, some so completely weather-worn that there is no text. Additionally, I was in this entire cemetery completely alone seeing not a single other person, so even though I found the Mozart plot pretty quickly I stayed to look around for quite some time. Each gravestone was like a fingerprint, intricate and different from the next. The fact that this cemetery goes so overlooked blows my mind. A highlight of my trip by far.